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Kitchens & utility
Pantries & Larders
Full-height larder with pull-outs, spice racks and a proper worktop inside.
- Free measured survey
- Fixed written quote
- Workshop-made, site-fitted
- 10-year workmanship guarantee
- Fully insured
Every pantry we make starts with a site survey and a set of setting-out drawings, not a catalogue page. We measure the opening in your home, check the walls for wind and the floor for fall, then cut a carcass that fits the room you actually have.
How we build it
Timber is chosen for the room it is going into. Painted work is built in tulipwood and moisture-resistant MDF because they hold a crisp arris and take a sprayed finish without grain rise. Where the grain is meant to be seen we use European oak, walnut or ash, with veneers laid so the figure runs continuously across a set of doors.
Finish and materials
Every finished job gets a short handover: what the surface is, how to clean it, and how to adjust a hinge if a door drops after the heating has been on for a season. Adjustment is normal in timber and takes about two minutes once you know which screw to turn.
| Typical guide price | from £1,250 per linear metre, fitted |
|---|---|
| Typical lead time | 8–10 weeks from signed drawings |
| Typical construction | Painted with oak interior |
| Guarantee | 10 years on workmanship |
Guide prices are indicative. Real cost depends on the run length, ceiling height, finish and what goes inside. The indicative price tool gives you a range in about a minute, and a free survey turns it into a fixed written quote.
Where we fit pantries & larders
We survey and fit across 76 counties. Pick your area for local detail:
Straight answers
Pantries & Larders — common questions
What is the difference between a pantry and a larder?
Strictly, a larder is a cool room or cupboard for perishables and a pantry is dry storage. In practice people use them interchangeably for a full-height cupboard with an internal worktop and shelving.
How wide does a larder need to be?
600mm gets you shelves and a small worktop. 900mm to 1,200mm is where it becomes genuinely useful — you can put the toaster and the kettle inside and shut the door on them. Double doors that fold flat against the sides are worth the extra.
What goes on the inside of the doors?
Shallow racks for jars, spices and packets. The door racks are usually where a larder earns its keep, because you can see everything at once instead of digging behind.
Should the larder have a power socket?
Yes, at the back of the internal worktop. A larder with a socket becomes a breakfast station and permanently removes the small appliances from your worktops.
What worktop inside the larder?
A timber shelf is fine and warmer looking. If a kettle lives in there, add a stone or laminate insert behind it, because steam will lift an oiled timber edge over time.
Can a larder be cool without refrigeration?
Only with an external air vent and a north-facing wall, which is rare in a modern house. Most larders today are ambient storage — plan for a fridge for anything perishable.
Do the shelves need to be adjustable?
Yes. Tinned goods, cereal boxes and bottles are all different heights, and what you store changes. Drilled rows and shelf pins are cheap and make the cupboard usable for decades.
Can you build a larder into an existing kitchen?
Usually yes, by replacing two base units and the wall units above with a single full-height run. The main constraints are the ceiling height and whether there is a soffit or a pipe boxing in the way.
Start with a measurement
Tell us the space — we’ll tell you what it costs
Every quote starts with a free measured survey, so the price you get is the price you pay. No deposit is taken until you have drawings you are happy with.