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Timber structures
Timber Cladding
Larch, cedar or thermowood rainscreen on a ventilated batten cavity.
- Free measured survey
- Fixed written quote
- Workshop-made, site-fitted
- 10-year workmanship guarantee
- Fully insured
A run of timber cladding is a permanent part of the building, so it is worth setting out properly. We take the survey, agree the drawings, machine the parts in the workshop and fit in your home in one visit wherever the programme allows.
How we build it
Hardware is specified to the weight it is carrying, not to a price point. Soft-close runners are rated for the drawer load, hinges are adjustable in three planes, and sliding gear is sized so a full-height door still moves with one finger a decade later.
Finish and materials
Finishing happens in the workshop wherever possible. Sprayed paint gives an even film that brushwork cannot match, and the only work left on site is the final touch-in around scribes and fixings.
| Typical guide price | from £190 per linear metre, fitted |
|---|---|
| Typical lead time | 3–5 weeks from signed drawings |
| Typical construction | Siberian larch |
| Guarantee | 10 years on workmanship |
Guide prices are indicative. Real cost depends on the run length, ceiling height, finish and what goes inside. The indicative price tool gives you a range in about a minute, and a free survey turns it into a fixed written quote.
Where we fit timber cladding
We survey and fit across 76 counties. Pick your area for local detail:
Straight answers
Timber Cladding — common questions
Which timber should I use for cladding?
Siberian larch for durability and value; western red cedar for stability and a finer grain at a higher price; thermowood for good dimensional stability on a budget. All three can be left to silver or kept in colour with a UV-stable oil.
Does cladding need a cavity behind it?
Yes. A ventilated and drained cavity on treated battens over a breather membrane is what keeps the boards dry from both sides. Cladding fixed straight to a wall will cup, and the wall behind will stay wet.
How is it fixed?
Stainless steel ring-shank nails or screws — never galvanised, which reacts with the tannin in larch and cedar and leaves black streaks down the elevation. Secret-fixed profiles are available where you want no visible fixings.
Will it all go grey?
If untreated, yes, and unevenly at first — the sheltered areas silver more slowly than the exposed ones. It evens out over two to three years. If you want it to stay honey-coloured, expect to recoat every two to three years.
What board profile should I choose?
Shiplap and feather edge are traditional and shed water well. Square-edge with a shadow gap reads contemporary and needs a good membrane behind it because it is not weather-tight on its own. Vertical boards drain faster than horizontal.
Is timber cladding a fire risk?
On a domestic house below 11m, standard timber cladding is generally acceptable, subject to distance from the boundary. Above 11m or on flats, non-combustible materials are required. We check the position against current regulations before quoting.
Can I clad over existing render or brick?
Yes, provided the substrate is sound and the wall can take the batten fixings. It is a common way to update a tired elevation and adds a ventilated layer that helps the wall dry.
How long will it last?
Larch and cedar in a well-detailed, ventilated rainscreen give thirty to fifty years. The failures we are called to are nearly always detailing — no cavity, wrong fixings, or boards taken to ground level with no clearance.
Start with a measurement
Tell us the space — we’ll tell you what it costs
Every quote starts with a free measured survey, so the price you get is the price you pay. No deposit is taken until you have drawings you are happy with.