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Hardwood & shopfront joinery
Hardwood Worktops
Solid and staved tops, templated on site and jointed dry.
- Free measured survey
- Fixed written quote
- Workshop-made, site-fitted
- 10-year workmanship guarantee
- Fully insured
Off-the-shelf units are made to standard sizes and then filled out with scribe strips. Our run of hardwood worktop work is cut to the dimensions taken from your your home property, so there is no packing, no filler and no gap that opens up in year two.
How we build it
Hardware is specified to the weight it is carrying, not to a price point. Soft-close runners are rated for the drawer load, hinges are adjustable in three planes, and sliding gear is sized so a full-height door still moves with one finger a decade later.
Finish and materials
Every finished job gets a short handover: what the surface is, how to clean it, and how to adjust a hinge if a door drops after the heating has been on for a season. Adjustment is normal in timber and takes about two minutes once you know which screw to turn.
| Typical guide price | from £780 per linear metre, fitted |
|---|---|
| Typical lead time | 4-6 weeks from signed drawings |
| Typical construction | Staved oak or iroko, oiled |
| Guarantee | 10 years on workmanship |
Guide prices are indicative. Real cost depends on the run length, ceiling height, finish and what goes inside. The indicative price tool gives you a range in about a minute, and a free survey turns it into a fixed written quote.
Where we fit hardwood worktops
We survey and fit across 76 counties. Pick your area for local detail:
Often specified alongside
Hardwood Shopfronts
Traditional timber shopfronts built to the elevation, not to a standard module.
See detailShopfront Pilasters
The framing columns either side of the window, with plinth, shaft and capital.
See detailFascias & Signboards
Signboard, cornice and blocking, sized to carry the signwriting properly.
See detailStallrisers
The panelled base below the display glass, where the knocks actually land.
See detailStraight answers
Hardwood Worktops — common questions
Solid or staved?
Staved — narrow strips glued up — is more stable and far less likely to cup than a wide solid board. Full-stave gives a longer, cleaner grain line; narrow stave is more economical.
Which timber for a kitchen worktop?
Oak and iroko are the usual choices. Iroko has natural oils that suit areas near water. Walnut for a darker top, though it is softer and marks more readily.
Can I have a sink cut into it?
Yes. Undermount needs the cut edge sealing very thoroughly — that edge is the most common failure point on any timber top. We seal it before the sink goes anywhere near it.
How do I look after it?
Oil it. Frequently at first, then a couple of times a year. An oiled top can be sanded and re-oiled locally, which is why marks are not permanent the way they are on a lacquered top.
Will it mark?
Yes, and it will develop a patina. That is the trade-off for a surface you can repair rather than replace. If unmarked is the requirement, timber is the wrong material.
Do you template on site?
Yes. Walls are not square and a worktop scribed to a stated dimension will not fit. We template after the units are in, not before.
How are joints made?
Dry-jointed with connectors so the timber can move, not glued solid. A glued butt joint across the grain in a kitchen will open.
Can you match an existing run?
If the species and the stave width match, yes — though timber darkens with age and a new section will be lighter for the first year or two.
Start with a measurement
Tell us the space — we’ll tell you what it costs
Every quote starts with a free measured survey, so the price you get is the price you pay. No deposit is taken until you have drawings you are happy with.