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Hardwood & shopfront joinery
Stallrisers
The panelled base below the display glass, where the knocks actually land.
- Free measured survey
- Fixed written quote
- Workshop-made, site-fitted
- 10-year workmanship guarantee
- Fully insured
We build stallrisers as cabinetmakers rather than fitters: machined joints, real carcass construction, and a finish applied under workshop conditions before anything reaches your your home address.
How we build it
Carcass work is birch ply or MR MDF depending on span and load. Face frames and doors are solid hardwood. Everything is machined on the same setting so stiles, rails and reveals line through, and shadow gaps stay parallel from one end of the run to the other.
Finish and materials
Finishing happens in the workshop wherever possible. Sprayed paint gives an even film that brushwork cannot match, and the only work left on site is the final touch-in around scribes and fixings.
| Typical guide price | from £540 per linear metre, fitted |
|---|---|
| Typical lead time | 5-7 weeks from signed drawings |
| Typical construction | Iroko frame, moisture-tolerant panel |
| Guarantee | 10 years on workmanship |
Guide prices are indicative. Real cost depends on the run length, ceiling height, finish and what goes inside. The indicative price tool gives you a range in about a minute, and a free survey turns it into a fixed written quote.
Where we fit stallrisers
We survey and fit across 76 counties. Pick your area for local detail:
Often specified alongside
Hardwood Shopfronts
Traditional timber shopfronts built to the elevation, not to a standard module.
See detailShopfront Pilasters
The framing columns either side of the window, with plinth, shaft and capital.
See detailFascias & Signboards
Signboard, cornice and blocking, sized to carry the signwriting properly.
See detailConsole Brackets & Corbels
Carved and scrolled brackets at the head of each pilaster.
See detailStraight answers
Stallrisers — common questions
What is a stallriser?
The panelled section between pavement and display glass. It protects the glazing from knocks and keeps the bottom of the window out of the splash zone.
How tall should it be?
Usually 450 to 750mm. Too low and the glass takes the damage; too high and the display disappears from view. On a parade we generally match the neighbours so the run reads evenly.
What is the best material for a stallriser?
A hardwood frame with a moisture-tolerant panel. This is the wettest part of any shopfront — splash off the pavement plus cleaning water — so an untreated panel here will fail first.
Can a stallriser be repaired in sections?
Yes, and it usually is. The panel nearest the door goes first. We replace panels within the existing frame where the frame is sound.
Should it be ventilated behind?
Yes. A sealed stallriser traps moisture against the back face and rots outward, which is why so many look fine from the street until you press them.
Can you match a fielded panel profile?
Yes, from a gauge taken off the original. Fielded, flat and bolection panels all read differently and it is obvious when the wrong one is used.
Does it need to take a security shutter?
If a shutter is planned we detail the bottom rail and the fixing points for it during the build, rather than drilling into finished joinery afterwards.
How is it finished?
All faces sealed, including the back and the bottom edge, before it goes near the wall. The bottom edge is the one everyone forgets and the one that fails.
Start with a measurement
Tell us the space — we’ll tell you what it costs
Every quote starts with a free measured survey, so the price you get is the price you pay. No deposit is taken until you have drawings you are happy with.